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12 May 2009 @ 06:45 pm
Of course and  again, I've been attracted by a particuliar period that is not so simple regarding fashion. It remembers me of  the "Eleonore Urquhart's gown" which was a transitional gown not really 18th, nor early 19th, nor "robe-chemise" etc.

With the year 1909, I am interested once more in a transitonal fashion, where we can find the 1900-1905 low and thin waist, and the same thin waist but a bit higher, almost like an Empire waist :

But also a real under-breast Empire style waist :

And also, these gowns that I only find on fashion plate and artistic drawings, with almost no waist and even a very straight shape as we will see on later gowns.

Of course, the gown I am attracted by looks like this last one and has not a very common shape. I think I'm going to "cheat" a bit for on the fashion plate I chose, we can suppose that there is a high waist we cannot really see (because of the position of the lady etc). But then, what kind of corset to choose ?
Not a too "1900s" one, that obviously doesn't looks right with a straight gown, although it is a 1908 one.

But on the other hand, a 1911-1913 looks too modern :

So I'm planning to mix both to obtain a sort of 1909 corset that still fit for a so exantric straight gown, that would look like that :

But I have no idea at that time how to make it. So many questions... :)

10 May 2009 @ 10:15 am
Hello again ! Normally, my future new gown should be a 1909 gown.

For too long I have been dreaming of 1910s gowns but never had time or occasion to realise one. But, because I am planning a 1910s evening, I've found the perfect excuse for me to make (at last !) an Edwardian-Belle époque gown.

It was very hard to choose which to make, so many different types of gowns from this era attract me. Three in particular are obsessing me : two evening gowns and a day dress/suit.

The first one comes from a fashion plate. I always found it beautiful although it's rather a simple shape, not very original. I think I find it beautiful because of the lady wearing it and also because of the beauty of the fabrics : very fine black lace and probably embroidered silk that I am not able to make of find nowadays. Thinking so, I decided to choose another model that I like very much (mixing kimono's inspiration and a sort of "bolero" top). And then, as I was gone to watch some fabrics, I found a very nice "water green" fabric and also a not so beautiful but still interesting false black lace, still a bit thick and surely not as fine and beauty as those especially made for the 1910s gowns. So, some madness took me and I bought them both. For you to see :
The model and the fabrics :
The black lace really do look "poor", I will probably put a black velvet braid and some pearls.

The gown has an Empire style waist but doesn't seem to have a belt under the waist. At this moment I don't now how I will cut it, I will probably cut separately the top and the skirt of the under gown but I am not sure yet. It's rather a strange gown for this period. If it doesn't look really nice without the front embroidery and the whole beautiful lace pattern I will probably make another one (... as if I needed an excuse).

The other one that totally obsess me comes from a book... I am writing. And if think it obsesses me because the gown isn't quite clear in my head but said as to be very elegant, simple but very nice. The problem is I have not been able to draw it yet and haven't find the inspirations of that gown, it will have to wait. As for the first one, I will need those beautiful fabrics from the 1910 I will probably never find.

The last dress comes from a dream (yep... i may be a bit weird but I very frequently dream about past periods and clothes :)). It was a very simple but still beautiful dress so I drew it to remember it and hope I will be able to make it. So for now, let's focus on the first one.

More photos of the fabrics :

EDIT : Ok I couldn't resist, tortured as I was, I tried to wrap me in the fabric and but the lace on it to see if I would look like a horrible carnaval-like so-called 1910s dressed girl OR if it would look like ok. I still have no idea for I must no be objective enough. Need advice !

21 March 2009 @ 07:44 pm
Hello everyone !

My new gown is a 1770's gown (I've stopped working on my regency winter gown, there are still problems I can't cope with...). It is all made in stripped silk, and I like it very much (although I have plenty of 16th, 12th, 19th century gown to make, now I want to realise another "Robe à l'Anglaise" from the late 18th century...)

29 November 2008 @ 10:16 am
Hello Everyone ! Since winter is coming, I have more time to realise new costumes (I'm so happy to sew again, pfffew, too many projects were fighting in my mind when no one could be realised).

I'm planning to sew a Regency Winter Gown (1810's I think). I found the fabric (with wich I'm totally in love, that means that it's  the right fabric when I feel like that ^^ ), a very nice light wool.

But before making my pattern and so on, I would love to hear your advice (if someone is still reading this journal).

I'm wondering about the back of the gown. The easiest solution, as always, is to put buttons. Quick, easy but... I don't really enjoy backs with buttons. What I really would love to have for once, is a back without any opening (except from the necklace of course). The thing is, we can really put on a gown like that, without an opening.

I tought of making an opening in the front, but the style of the dress is like for 1810's dresses :  there is no pleated front (except for the breast part), so I can't hide an opening for the front skirt. The only pleated section is in the back : the skirt, but it's the same thing, the opening with a drawtring will be seen.

I saw some dresses like that, especially in Pride & Prejudice (BBC), the one of Kitty in the beginning or the dress of Elinor in Sense&Sensibility here :

I can't see where the opening is (I mean, for the waist... how do we go inside that dress ?? There must be something hidden but I'm not sure of what...

If no solution is found, I would probably put a pleated section in the front skirt, or buttons in the back... :/

Many Thanks !

29 August 2008 @ 05:08 pm


I'm planning to organize a gathering in France, in the country of Chateaubriand near St Malo.

I hope it would be in costumes most of the time. For now the stay includes a trip in St Malo, a visit of Chateaubriand's castle, maybe a visit of the boat of Surcouf, a little trip near the coast to admire the sea and some very "romantic" points of view...

To know more, please visit here (you have to login to access to the page) :
27 June 2008 @ 02:45 pm
I've finished my gown. Or... almost. First, the photos, and then the problems...

 I still have to make something with the collar for it to be more straight. I will also have to make another corset. First, I choosed to wear a "blanc corset" under the gown, but now that I look at it, the gown seems to look too much "18th" century and not really late 18th century.

On the portrait we can see the waist and the breast clearer than on my gown. On mine, the breast is flat (because of the corset). I will probably make one like this one : http://dept.kent.edu/museum/exhibit/nudity/CHS_1963_42_4.htm

I'm also a bit... hum, how to say that... Ok, I'm not fat but I'm not slim. Because the gown is late 18th, the waist starts to be a bit higher than the real waist, as we can see on the portrait. And to put the waist higher than the natural one, means to have a waist less slim. Therefore in that gown I feel a bit like something with no breast, no waist and well... like a tree ? (frustum ?)

I've tried with too kinds of belt, I like both. Well so i have to make a new corset... pfffewwww... 

I was not kidding, I'm really working on my "Eleanor's gown". The problem is I make it very slowly, for the painting isn't really detailed (I'm not sure of the shape of the skirt...). So at every step I'm wondering how I will proceed and go forward, I'm wondering about what decision will be right, wich one I won't regret etc.

So, I've been working on it, and I've decided to make the gown in two parts, one for the skirt, one for the top. I will then sew them only in the back and both sides.

Here is the top (he looks weird there but is quite nice on me ^^) :

And here is the skirt :

None of this parts of the dress is finished. Now I'm working on the skirt, for I've some problems with finding the right fabric for the collar. And I still have to make the petticoat, the other petticoat, and the Blanc Corset, and a light shirt well... it won't be finished very soon.
19 June 2008 @ 08:21 am
From fiofiorina too...

You are The Star

Hope, expectation, Bright promises.The Star is one of the great cards of faith, dreams realised.

The Star is a card that looks to the future. It does not predict any immediate or powerful change, but it does predict hope and healing.

 This card suggests clarity of vision, spiritual insight. And, most importantly, that unexpected help will be coming, with water to quench your thirst, with a guiding light to the future. They might say you're a dreamer, but you're not the only one.

What Tarot Card are You?
Take the Test to Find Out.
19 May 2008 @ 09:48 am
I'm trying to realize Miss Eleanor Urquhart's dress (and a blanc-corset) , but i'm still not sure of some details. I have found one of the fabrics I needed but I'm still missing the others.... I thought it would be easier than that (hum well, I always think that, and i'm usualy wrong).

Here are some photos of the portrait : http://www.flickr.com/photos/26704810@N04/
15 May 2008 @ 03:43 pm
I just fall in love with my fabric.

I know it sounds stupid, I mean, we hardly know each other, but I wish you knew how soft it is, it's not just a simple piece of cotton as one could think... Hum, well, I fear our love will not bear the moment when I will take my scissors and start to cut ^^
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